A larger more powerful drill with more mass seems to help greatly. I think the key is for that SDS bit to really slam back and forth to create the hammering motion. This is all in hard granite.īasically, the little lightweight drills spin more than hammer. I did 15 holes with the same bit, each hole took about 20 seconds! A world of difference. Same bit, which we thought we may have ruined and burned up. Later I put some bolts in on a sport climb on rap, so I used a big heavy Makita. This is 10mm (basically 3/8) Hilti (Petzl) bit. It sucked and took 3-4 minutes per hole (long time while crimping holds) and it blued the end of the drill. We recently put up a route ground-up, so we used the lightweight M12. Could be your 20V dewalt is like my 12V M12 Milwaukee. I'm having a tough time believing that a Hilti or Bosch would make that much difference, especially if they're hitting even harder and about same RPM.ĭefinitely hammer drill dependent. I don't want to order replacements until better idea what I'm doing wrong.ĭoes anyone pull the bit and quench their tip with water every inch? Try and flood the hole with water? Would it make such a huge difference that a bit which (according to one site) should last 350 holes in concrete won't even last 2? I feel like it's the amount of force I'd use to drill a hole in say, aluminum w/ a regular sharp bit. I'm pulling tip out to clean chips regularly ~ every inch or so.Ībout 10lbs of force? My friend thinks I'm leaning on it too hard, I didn't think so initially, now, not sure. (I triple checked all this after smoking first bit) I can lick my fingers and sizzle the tip even after short bursts.ĭefinitely set to turning and hammering mode (same as in pic in link)ĭefinitely set to correct direction. Tip is mushed.Īfter first hole, the steel under the carbide tip is starting to turn blue. I've got a 20V cordless dewalt dch273b SDS rotor hammer (don't judge, it's what I've got).Īlso used friend's other bit, not sure brand, but it was new.ĭrills quickly first couple inches, then eventually just stops and won't drill anymore. I believe I'm drilling into quartz granite. In German-speaking countries, the back-formation "Spannen durch System" (Clamping System) is used, though Bosch uses "Special Direct System" for international purposes.New 3/8" SDS Plus bit doesn't last 2 holes. The name comes from the German "Stecken – Drehen – Sichern" (Insert – Twist – Secure). The SDS bit was developed by Hilti and Bosch in 1975. Hilti's TE-S system is similar to these SDS systems, but is designed for chipping only (no rotation) in tools for applications larger than could be handled by SDS-Max (e.g. SDS-Top has been largely phased out in North America and is not common except for older tools. Standard lengths are 12 to 21 inches (300 to 530 mm). SDS-max is more common for larger rotary hammers and chipping guns, and common sizes start at 1⁄2 inch (13 mm) diameter up to 1 3⁄4 inches (44 mm) diameter. The shortest SDS-plus masonry drill bits are about 110 mm overall length, and the longest 1500 mm. SDS-plus is the most common by count of tools manufactured, with masonry drills from 4 mm diameter to 30 mm (and from 5/32" to 1-1/4") diameter ordinarily available. There are three standard sizes of SDS: SDS-plus (or SDSplus or SDS+), SDS-Top and SDS-max. The shank must be lubricated with grease to allow it to slide in the chuck. The hammer of the drill hits the flat end of the shank. The smaller indentations that do not open to the end are grasped by the chuck to prevent the drill bit falling out. The rotational drive uses the sliding keyways that open to the end of the shank, which mate with keys in the chuck. The hammer of the drill acts to accelerate only the drill bit itself, and not the large mass of the chuck, which makes hammer drilling with an SDS shank drill bit much more productive than with other types of shank. The drill bit is not held solidly in the chuck, but can slide back and forth like a piston it does not slip during rotation due to the non-circular shank cross-section, matching the chuck. This shank and chucks made for it are especially suited to hammer drilling with masonry drills in stone and concrete. The SDS shank has the advantage of fitting into a simple spring-loaded chuck, so that bits are simply pushed into the chuck without tightening. The diameter of an SDS and SDS Plus shank is 10 millimeters. What are the differences between SDS, SDS Plus, and SDS Max drills?
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